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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.